Fly Rods, Reels, Lines and More

On various occasions during our past programs, questions have been raised about fly fishing tackle whether it is for fresh water or salt water. What defines a fly rod as to function and use; e.g., what is a 6 wt, 8 wt, 4 wt, etc?  What is the designation for fly lines? And what do we need to know about fly reels to make everything work together?  Fly fishing tackle comprises equipment typically used by fly anglers. This includes rods, reels, lines, flies, and various accessories including fly boxes, tools, gadgets, waders, boots and clothing. In a past issue, we had an article on the many pockets of fly fishing vests. This article deals with fly rods, reels and flies line.

Fly Rod Sizes and Usage
Single handed fly rods normally vary between 6 ft and 13 ft in length with most rods today being 9 ft for medium or larger rivers. Two handed or Spey rods will be discussed at another time. Fly rods and lines are designated as to their "weight", typically written as Nwt where 'N' is the number (e.g. 8wt, 9wt, 10wt).
Rods are matched to the line according to weight. The manufacturer marks on the rod  the fly line weight for which a rod has been designed. Zero or one-weight rods and lines are the lightest; the weight designations increase up to the heaviest rods and lines at 16-weight (16wt). In general, 0wt through 2wt would be in the class used for small trout, and pan fish, 3wt and 4wt are popular for small-stream fishing, 5wt is often considered the all-around rod for trout, 6wt and 7wt are used on larger rivers and for fishing streamers, 8wt to 10wt rods and lines might be used for steelhead, salmon or pike  in medium to large rivers or lakes, as well as for bass fishing with large flies and as lightweight salt water use. Ten and 11wt rods and lines would be used for pursuing large salt water game fish such as Tarpon under conditions of high wind or surf. The heaviest rods (12–16wt) are mostly used for blue water species (billfish, tuna) usually fishing from a boat. The characteristics of these rods reflect the fact that only short casts are needed during this type of fly fishing, while lifting ability is at a premium. The species pursued under different conditions will largely determine the weight of the rod selected.

Fly Lines
Next, it is important to match the line to the weight of the rod. Using too heavy a line on too light on a rod, or vice versa, will dramatically affect casting performance. It may also permanently warp the rod blank. As a rule of thumb, one line weight more or less (i.e. an 8wt or 10wt line on a 9wt rod) can be used. However, it is best to use the designated weight line for the rod design. There are also rods stamped with a range of weights. For example, a rod may be rated 7-8wt. This indicates the rod is designed for either a 7 or 8 weight fly line. There are also some rods rated for wider ranges (e.g. 8-9-10wt). The drawback to multi-rated rods is that compromises in flexibility or action are made in order to accommodate a wider range of line weights. For example, a rod rated for 8-9 weight line will be slightly stiffer than a straight 8wt but slightly softer than a straight 9wt rod.
Saltwater fly rods are built to handle powerful fish and to cast large, bulky flies longer distances or in strong wind conditions. Saltwater fly rods are normally fitted with heavier, corrosion-resistant fittings and larger guides to allow less resistance to longer casts. The reel seat in heavier rods may also be equipped with a short extension often called a "fighting butt". Rods for saltwater fishing fall into the 8 to 15 weight class, with 12-weight being typical for larger species like tuna, Dorado (mahi-mahi) and wahoo (ono). I personally use 10 and 11wt for Tarpon and 8wt for Bonefish and Permit.

Bamboo and split cane rods
The earliest fly rods were made from greenheart, a tropical wood, and later bamboo originating in the Tonkin area of Guangdong Province in China. The mystical appeal of handmade split-cane rods has endured despite the emergence over the last 50 years of less expensive rod-making materials that offer more durability and performance: fiberglass and graphite.
Split-cane bamboo fly rods combine sport, history and art. It may take well over 100 hours for an experienced rod builder to select and split the raw cane and then to cure, flame, plane, file, taper, glue, wrap and finish each rod. Quality rods made by famous rod makers may sell for prices well beyond US $2,000; a new rod from a competent, contemporary (though not famous) builder may sell for a bit less. These rods offer grace, form, and with their solid mass, surprising strength. Bamboo rods vary in action from slow to medium depending on the taper of the rod.

Synthetic fly rods
Modern fly rods are made from carbon fiber/graphite with cork or, less frequently, hypalon being favored for the grip. Such rods generally offer greater stiffness than bamboo, are much more consistent and less expensive to manufacture, and require less maintenance. Fiberglass was popular for rods constructed in the years following World War II and was the "material of choice" for many years. However, by the late 1980s, carbon/graphite composite rods (including premium graphite/boron and graphite/titanium blends) had emerged as the materials used by most fly rod manufacturers. These premium rods offer stiffness, sensitivity, and feel unmatched by any other synthetic material. Graphite composites are especially well-suited to the construction of multi-piece rods (3pc, 4pc, 5pc) since the joints, known as ferrules, in better-quality graphite rods do not significantly affect overall flex or rod action. Today's modern carbon graphite composite fly rods are available in a wide range of sizes and types, from ultra light trout rods to bass fishing rods and two-handed "spey" rods. Rod makers today provide some excellent choices in the range of  $150 - $300 with premium rods going for more than $600.

Fly reels
Fly reels, or fly casting reels, on small trout and pan fish rods  are little more than line-storage devices. In use, a fly angler strips line off the reel with one hand while casting and manipulating the rod with the other. Slack line is picked up by rotating the reel spool. Even today, the vast majority of fly reels are manually-operated, single-action reels of rather simple construction, with a simple click-pawl drag system. However, in recent years, more advanced fly reels have been developed for larger fish and more demanding conditions. These newer reels feature disc-type mechanical, adjustable drag systems to permit the use of lighter leaders and tippets, or to successfully capture fish that undertake long, powerful runs. Many modern fly reels have large arbors to increase speed of the retrieve and to improve drag performance during long runs of big fish. In order to prevent corrosion, saltwater fly reels often use aluminum frames and spools or stainless steel components with sealed bearing and drive mechanisms.
Fly line can be retrieved using either hand. Most modern fly reels can be converted to or from left-hand or right-hand retrieve. Many fly anglers who have come to the sport after spending some years as spin casters are more comfortable with a left-hand retrieve. Right handed "big game" fishers may find the right hand retrieve more efficient. In either case, modern large-arbor reels can be retrieved with fair efficiency using either hand to retrieve. As a general rule, if a fly angler casts with the right hand, it is best to wind with the left hand. The reverse is true for the left handed caster. If that can’t be done, casting right handed and reeling right handed means switching the rod to the other hand for retrieve which may produce slack line and lost fish.
Fly reels are often rated for a specific weight and type of fly line in combination with a specific strength and length of backing. For example, the documentation supplied with a reel may state that the reel can take 150 yards of 50 pound-test backing and 30 yards of fly line. An angler or fly shop should be able to "load" the reel with the specified length of line and backing and still have sufficient room between the line and the spool's edge. Most modern reels are designed to take interchangeable spools. Such spools can be quickly switched, thus allowing an angler to change the type of line in a matter of minutes. Again, cost ranges from $150 - $300 to more than $700 for large high performance reels.

Fly lines
Fly line is a specialized fishing tool that supplies the weight or mass necessary to cast an artificial fly. The first fly lines were constructed of woven horsehair that eventually evolved into woven silk fiber lines. As plastics technologies improved, synthetic materials gradually replaced natural materials in the construction of fly lines. Today’s fly lines are generally constructed of an outside synthetic layer that determines the line’s slickness, buoyancy, shape and weight over an inside core material which determines the line’s strength and flexibility. The typical fly line is 90 feet long although longer fly lines are available for special situations. Fly lines have several characteristics which can be used to describe any given fly line. Some of these characteristics are based on industry standards and norms while others vary considerably between manufacturers.

• Taper – Taper describes the change in cross-sectional diameter of a fly line from one end to another. Taper is a significant determinant in the casting performance of an individual fly line particularly the ability to present different types of artificial flies from the very delicate to the heavy and wind resistant in differing on-water conditions. Fly lines in general are said to be:
• Weight forward taper – the cross-sectional diameter changes from smaller to larger to small within the front 30 feet of the fly line. Weight forward taper lines have only one end to which the leader is attached and are designated, e.g.,        WF-5-F (Weight Forward 5wt Floating).
• Double taper – the cross-sectional diameter changes from smaller to larger to smaller symmetrically along the entire length of the fly line. Double taper fly lines may be reversed if one end becomes damaged. These may be designated DT-5-F (Double Taper 5wt Floating).
• Level – the cross-sectional diameter is identical along the entire length of the fly line. This may also be referred to as shooting line.
• Shooting heads –Shooting heads and tips are level or tapered sections of fly line designed for exceptionally long distance casting.
• Weight – Fly line weight is an industry standard measure of the actual weight in grains of the first 30 feet or 9.1 meters of fly line. Fly rods are designed to cast fly lines of a specific weight. Fly line weights vary from 0 weight to 15 weight using standards established by the American Fishing Tackle Manufacturers Association. A 5 weight fly line is designed to match up with a 5 weight fly rod. These relationships are not absolute and anglers may prefer to over-line or under-line any given rod depending on their casting style and rod action. Some sinking and sink-tip fly lines do not carry a numbered weight, but instead are identified by the actual weight in grains of the first 30 feet of line, such as a 250-grain sinking line or sink tip.

• Buoyancy – Typical fly lines have a buoyancy characteristic that describes how the line behaves on the water after being cast.
• Floating – Floating fly line is designed to stay on the water surface along its entire length. Floating fly line is essential for presentation of artificial flies that must remain on the surface such as dry flies, poppers, bugs, etc. Floating fly line is also necessary to fish nymphs effectively with strike indicators.
• Sink-Tip – Sink Tip fly line is designed so that some length of the tip section of the fly line sinks while the remainder of the fly line floats. Sink Tips are generally characterized by a sink rate in inches per second and are used when it is necessary to get artificial flies deeper in the water column.
• Sinking – Sinking fly line is designed to sink along the entire length of fly line and is typically used in fly fishing deep waters or where the artificial fly must reach the bottom rapidly. The rate of sink is also a variable with these lines.
• Intermediate – This line is usually clear and is designed to sink slowly and ride just below the water surface.   

Fly line manufacturers design and formulate their fly lines with other characteristics as well. Fly lines are specifically formulated for warm water and cold water conditions, fresh and salt water as well as designs that target a specific type or fish or fishing, e.g., Trout Taper, Pike Taper, Tarpon Taper, Bonefish Taper.

Backing
Fly line is typically attached to a length of braided or gelspun line wound on the fly reel known as backing. The length and breaking strength of the backing depends on the overall line capacity of the reel and the type of fish targeted. Backing may be as short as a few yards up to 100s of yards if the reel has the capacity. Backing can serve two purposes. One is to create a larger diameter spooling surface that allows the fly line to fill the entire fly reel. The other is to provide additional line for fighting heavy or hard fighting fish. A fast running or hard fighting fish may take line from the reel and get into the backing. Using backing of a color different than the fly line is helpful to the angler or guide in knowing when this happens.

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